Radio Gear:
A Radio Gear Note for Newcomers:
In case you're new to all this, let me explain the basics.  Your radio gear consists of two main categories:
  1. The control box (Transmitter).  Different brands of transmitters create slightly different signals.  Also, most transmitters have a radio channel (numbered 11-60 in the US) that cannot be changed, so you'll need to know the brand and channel of your transmitter, to order a matching receiver from Liftworx (that will "speak your transmitter's language").  Transmitters manufactured before 1992 were built to a cruder standard and will not work with modern receivers.  Also, transmitters manufactured for toys are not likely to work with higher quality R/C equipment.
  2. The stuff that actually goes in the plane (onboard gear).  The onboard gear consists of servos, a receiver, a battery, and a switch harness.  The servos are plugged into the receiver and create the actual motion for the control surfaces on the aircraft.  The receiver "listens" to the radio signals from the transmitter and sends commands to the servos.  The battery provides power for the receiver and the servos.  The switch harness connects the battery to the receiver, and provides an on-off switch for the glider's onboard systems.
SERVOS:
You'll need two sub-micro servos.  I recommend the Pico 6g servos for Liftworx models because I think they offer the best combination of quality, speed, torque, and light weight.  There are other sub micro servos that will work, but most are a compromise of one kind or another.

RECEIVER:

For the best security against radio interference and maximum range, you'll want the FMA M5 receiver.  It is available with your Swyft or Herring kit from FMA Direct.  There are other receivers that will fit, but many will not give adequate performance.  Please trust me when I say that radio interference ('glitching') is an instant joy killer, and sometimes a model killer.  I recommend the M5 because it is the only receiver that has consistently performed without 'glitching' in the difficult radio environment here in Seattle.

ONBOARD BATTERY PACK:

My favorite solution for the onboard battery is a pair of Lithium CR-2 camera cells.  Soldered in series with a connector (to form a 6V pack), they offer up to 20 hours of flying.  You can buy the pack pre-soldered from Liftworx, or make your own.  Complete instructions for wiring and soldering your own pack are now available with any CR-2 lithium cell purchase from Liftworx.  The required connector is also available in the form of a micro-extension.  These cells are available at any drug store, but are less expensive direct from Liftworx.  NOTE: CR-2 Cells are not rechargable.

SWITCH HARNESS:

The switch harness is just a very small on-off switch, with the appropriate plugs to connect the battery to the receiver.  You CAN plug the battery pack directly into the receiver; but plugging it in the wrong way can damage the receiver, and plugging it in and out every time you fly increases the risk of damaging the connector pins on the receiver circuit board.  A switch is convenient, and recommended.  The switch harness also has a second lead that can be used for recharging (if you use a rechargeable battery pack) - without disconnecting the battery from the receiver.

RECHARGEABLE BATTERY OPTIONS:

Currently Liftworx does not sell rechargeable battery packs; but it's fine to use rechargeable batteries for your glider.  There are many rechargeable technologies out there these days, and I don't pretend to be an expert on all of them.  But if you plan on using rechargeable batteries, here are a few pointers:
  • The ideal battery pack weight for the Swyft is 19-24 grams.
  • The ideal battery pack weight for the original (EPS) Red Herring is 17-24 grams.
  • The Red Herring EPP may be built with a slightly heavier pack, depending on your weight goals.
  • Be sure you have recharging equipment appropriate to the type and size of pack you'll be using.